Ordering wheels direct from a factory means you are the one who has to get fitment right. Custom wheels are often made to order and hard to return. These are the numbers you need before you pay.

| Spec | What it means |
|---|---|
| Bolt pattern (PCD) | Number of lugs and circle diameter, e.g. 5x112 or 5x114.3. Must match your hub exactly. |
| Offset (ET) | Distance from the wheel centerline to the mounting face, in mm. Higher offset = wheel sits further in. |
| Width & diameter | E.g. 19x9.5. Affects tire size, rubbing and brake clearance. |
| Center bore | The hole that locates the wheel on the hub. Too big needs hub-centric rings; too small will not fit. |
| Load rating | How much weight each wheel is rated to carry. Matters for heavy cars, SUVs and trucks. |
| Seat type | Conical, ball or flat lug seat. Must match your lug nuts or bolts. |
Forged wheels are often machined to order, so you can usually choose PCD, offset and center bore. Get a drawing or spec sheet confirming them before production, and ask about testing or certification (for example JWL/VIA or TÜV) if that matters where you live.
The parts are the easy part. Finding a trustworthy manufacturer is what takes time. The Parts Plug Supplier Vault lists factory-direct suppliers so you can compare listings, photos and specs in one place, then contact suppliers yourself.
Spacers push a wheel outward, but they must be quality hub-centric parts with correct bolts. They cannot fix a wheel that already sits too far out.
Use hub-centric rings so the wheel is centered on the hub, not only on the lug nuts. Otherwise you can get vibration.
Many will, but get it in writing. You are responsible for giving them the exact car, year, trim and brake setup.

